Range Repair Help: My oven doesn’t bake or broil

November 6, 2009

Q: Why doesn’t my oven bake? Inside of a range

A:  When there’s no heat at all in the oven, the first thing to check should be the timer controls. An automatic cycle setting could be preventing the oven from lighting.

If you have a self-cleaning range, make sure the door is in the unlock position. You will also want to check that all knobs are in the correct positions. If you have an Electronic Control, you can try unplugging the range for 30 seconds or so before you plug it back in. This can reset an Electronic Control. Make sure the gas is on to the range.

Most times when an oven won’t bake, it’s because the bake ignitor has gotten weak or it’s just burned out. The ignitor is a small round or rectangular device located near the burner. The ignitor is wired in series with the gas safety valve. When the ignitor is cold, it has a lot of resistance, meaning it gets most of the electricity in the circuit.

As it heats up, its resistance drops. This allows enough electricity to heat the bi-metal strip in the gas safety valve, which then allows gas to be released to the burner assembly. The gas then gets ignited by the glow-bar ignitor. The ignitor glows the whole time the burner is on, keeping the gas safety valve open. The thermostat senses when the desired temperature is reached, and cuts off electricity to the gas safety valve and ignitor.

If this ignitor is weak or burned out, it won’t heat enough to lower its resistance to the point where the bi-metal strip gets enough electricity to heat up and allow the gas safety valve to open, and it will not release gas to the burner assembly. When this happens, you may have to replace either the ignitor or the gas safety valve.

Many times it’s the ignitor that is to blame, and cheaper to replace. The gas safety valve does precisely what the name implies. It prevents gas from being introduced to the burner when there’s a possibility that it won’t get ignited properly. There are a few different variations in their operation, but the purpose is always the same, to prevent accidents.

If the glow-bar or spark systems are in proper working order, you may have a faulty gas safety valve. Check it for continuity. A faulty selector switch or thermostat could also be your problem. Check the selector switch for continuity between pairs of contacts. If none, replace the switch.

For the thermostat, consult your wiring diagram when testing it for continuity. If there is no continuity at any of the contact terminal points, you must replace the thermostat.

Q: Why doesn’t my oven broil?

A: You may have incorrect clock settings if you have a self-cleaning or timed baking oven. (Consult your owner’s manual) If the broil ignitor is not working properly, the broil burner will not work.

The ignitors are round or rectangular and are right next to the burner. The ignitor is wired in series with the gas safety valve. When the ignitor is cold, it has a lot of resistance, meaning it gets most of the electricity in the circuit. As it heats up, its resistance drops. This allows enough electricity to heat the bi-metal strip in the gas safety valve, which then allows gas to be released to the burner assembly.

The gas then gets ignited by the glow-bar ignitor. The ignitor glows the whole time the burner is on, keeping the gas safety valve open. The thermostat senses when the desired temperature is reached, and cuts off electricity to the gas safety valve and ignitor. If this ignitor is weak or burned out, it won’t heat enough to lower its resistance to the point where the bi-metal strip gets enough electricity to heat up and allow the gas safety valve to open, and it will not release gas to the burner assembly.

When this happens, you may have to replace either the ignitor or the gas safety valve. Many times it’s the ignitor that is to blame, and cheaper to replace. The gas safety valve does precisely what the name implies. It prevents gas from being introduced to the burner when there’s a possibility that it won’t get ignited properly.

There are a few different variations in their operation, but the purpose is always the same, to prevent accidents. If the glow-bar or spark systems are in proper working order, you may have a faulty gas safety valve. Check it for continuity. A faulty selector switch or thermostat could also be your problem. Check the selector switch for continuity between pairs of contacts. If none, replace the switch.

For the thermostat, consult your wiring diagram when testing for continuity. If there is no continuity at any of the contact terminal points, you must replace the thermostat.

For More Repair Help, Visit our Repair Library or the Appliance Repair Forum!

To look for a range part, visit our Range Replacement Parts Page.


Maintenance Tips for your Range

October 14, 2009

The holidays are going to be here before we know it! Now is a great time to get your range in tip-top shape. AP Wagner has compiled some great tips to help you do just that!

  • Use non-abrasive cleansers to clean finished exterior surfaces. 31552AP Wagner has a large supply of range cleaners to help you. Our favorite is Whirlpool’s Heavy Duty Degreaser. This cleaner works great on black stoves, it removes streaks and leaves your stove top like new!
  • When cleaning around switches and knobs, spray some cleanser on a cloth and then wipe the surfaces. Electric parts do not like any liquids.
  • Clean burner holes with a toothpick if they’re getting plugged. This will increase their efficiency.r
  • The burner drip pans may get stained over time. Once stained, it’s 5303013588_01very difficult to remove it. Some people like to replace the drip pans every two to three years.  AP Wagner caries a drip pans and bowls for all makes and models
  • Make sure to clean up any spills promptly. Something like tomato sauce, which is very acidic, can pit and corrode your drip pans and burner bowls.

For more tips on maintaining your range or any other appliance, visit the Repair Center on AP Wagner.com!


Frigidaire and Kenmore Elite Electric Ranges Recalled due to fire hazard

August 28, 2009
Sample of a smoothtop range with rotary knobs and digital displays

Sample of a smoothtop range with rotary knobs and digital displays

Frigidaire, a division of Electrolux Home Products Inc.,  issued a recall Wednesday of their Frigidaire, and and Kenmore Elite electric ranges due to a potential fire hazard caused by the heating elements on the ranges.

The heating elements could turn on “spontaneously,” fail to turn off or heat at different temperatures than selected through the controls.

Serial plate is located by opening the range drawer at the bottom of the unit.

Serial plate is located by opening the range drawer at the bottom of the unit.

Frigidaire has received 126 reports of incidents, including four reports of minor burns and two reports of minor property damage caused by the heating elements.

The recall involves Frigidaire, Frigidaire Gallery, Frigidaire Professional and Kenmore Elite smoothtop electric ranges with rotary knobs and digital displays.

The model and serial number can be found by opening the range drawer at the base of the unit.

The recall affects the following models:

Frigidaire (Serial Number Range VF122xxxxx – VF831xxxxx) and Models Beginning with
FEFBZ90GC
FEFLMC55GC
FEFLZ87GC
GLEF396AB
GLEF396AQ
GLEF396AS
GLEF396CQ
GLEF396CS
GLEFM397DB
GLEFM397DQ
GLEFM397DS
GLEFM97FPB
GLEFM97FPW
GLEFM97GPB
GLEFM97GPW
LEEFM389FE PLEF398AC
PLEF398CC
PLEF398DC
PLEFM399DC
PLEFMZ99EC
PLEFMZ99GC
PLEFZ398EC
PLEFZ398GC

Kenmore Elite

(Serial Number Range VF122xxxxx – VF334xxxxx)

and Models Beginning with

790.99012 790.99013 790.99014 790.99019

The ranges were sold from June 2001 through August 2009 nationwide at Sears and other national chain and independent retailers and cost between $1,000 and $2,500.

American Consumers who own the faulty ranges are urged stop using the ranges and Sears or Frigidaire for a free repair.

Frigidaire

Phone (800) 449-9812 between 8 a.m. and midnight ET Monday through Saturday

Or visit Frigidaire’s Web site at www.smoothtoprangerecall.com.

If you purchased your recalled range at Sears call:

Phone: (800) 449-9810 between 8 a.m. and 10 p.m. ET Monday through Saturday.

For more information:

Frigidaire and Kenmore Smoothtop Electric Ranges Recalled Press Release from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission


Common problems with range vent hoods

March 16, 2009

Here are a few problems range vent hoods have and some answers on how to fix them:

Why is there no power to my range vent hood at all?

Fan and Light Switch Kit Maytag 12001128 -Sale price: $28.71

Fan and Light Switch Kit Maytag 12001128 -Sale price: $28.71

Most range vent hoods are designed to be wired directly into the household power supply, so if you have no power, check your fuse box or circuit breaker panel.

Why doesn’t my range vent hood fan work?

If the light is coming on, but the fan isn’t, your problem is with the fan switch or the fan motor. You can access these from under the hood, without removing it. Check the fan switch (in the on position) for continuity. If there is continuity, then replace the fan motor.

Why is my vent fan running at only one speed?

Aluminum Range Vent Hood Filter Set Misc 97007893, sale price $19.06

Aluminum Range Vent Hood Filter Set Misc 97007893, sale price $19.06

The first thing to check are the filters on your range vent hood. If these are full of grease, they could stop the flow of air and the fan may sound like it is only running at one speed. Once your filters are clean, you can check the fan switch and the fan motor to see if they are the problem. You can get to these from under the hood, without removing it.

Why is my fan moving air, but it’s not going outside?

Many vent hoods circulate air, but not all push the air outside of the home. You can tell if yours is a circulate-only, a vent-type hood, or a convertible hood by close examination of it.

Models with vent openings near the top front that the air blows through could be a circulate-only type of hood or a convertible type hood.

Models that have duct work coming out the top or back are probably a vent-type hood. Close examination will reveal what type you have.

If your hood has the vents in the front and the metal ductwork, then it is convertible. Careful inspection of the control panel may show a switch or lever to change where the range vent hood directs the air.

More Information:


How to extend the life of your appliance

December 12, 2008

I’ve blogged about this in the past, however when it comes to extending the life of your household appliances and saving money, I think it’s a topic that bears repeating.

ConsumerReports.org has a list of excellent tips on how to extend the life of your appliance. Even if you have a brand new appliance, this is an excellent list to review. You might pick up some tips on how to correctly use or maintain your appliance which will make it function better, last longer and possibly save you money by running in a more energy efficient manner.

Some of the appliance-saving tips mentioned in the article include advice for ranges, dishwashers, ovens, refrigerators, washing machines, and clothes dryers. Among the tips mentioned were: make sure that screens on washing machines (there is a screen located where the hoses attach to the water supply) and clothes dryers (lint screen) are cleaned regularly. Make sure that oven and refrigerator door gaskets fit properly, so they seal correctly. Read the entire article: “Help appliances live longer,” from ConsumerReports.org.

Despite your best efforts, your appliance will eventually break down. Sometimes a repair is easy to do and you can order the appliance replacement parts you need online. They will arrive quickly (most often in 1-2 days) and you can be on your way to fixing your own appliance. Check out my past blog entries, I have lots of appliance repair tips and help on a variety of topics.

The good folks at APWAgner.com will help you find the correct part you need for your name brand appliance. They deal directly with the appliance manufacturers and sell only new appliance parts. APWagner.com carries appliance replacement parts for General Electric, Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Westinghouse and hard-to-find brands like Sunbeam, Montgomery Ward, Magic Chef, JC Penney Repair Parts and more. To see a full list of all the brands AP Wagner carries by visiting the Major Brand Appliance Repair and Replacement Parts page on their website.


Help! The burner on my electric stove is always on high!

October 24, 2008

Question: Help! I have an electric stove and for the past few days my burner won’t turn off. It got extremely hot and stayed that way even when I turned the dial to “off”. I even tried unplugging it and then plugging it back in and it just started right back up to the highest setting? How do I fix this?

Answer: Sounds like that heating element’s (surface burner) infinite switch burned out. The infinite switch controls the supply of power to the heating element. It can provide heat from a variety of temperatures from low, medium, or high and everything in-between, hence its name since it has an “infinite” number of settings. This is different from a “Low-Medium-High” switch which only has three settings. Typically when this part breaks, it will cause the burners not to heat or to only heat on the highest setting.

Caution! Be sure to unplug your appliance from all power sources BEFORE performing any repairs!

The infinite switch part is found in the control panel of your electric stove and you can typically access it through removing the back panel part of your standard eclectic stove. This part has a number of wires you need to remove in order to replace the switch, be sure to label the wires properly so you can reconnect them to the new switch. Your part typically comes with very basic instructions on how to replace this part.

You can also test the infinite switch part to be sure it is the cause of your burner problems. Set the infinite switch to its highest setting. Use an ohmmeter or multimeter to test for continuity on the L2, H2, P and H1 terminals of the infinite switch. If there is no continuity, then the infinite switch part is defective.

Buy Infinite switch parts online.


AP Wagner is the Only U.S. Source for Sunbeam Appliance Parts

October 9, 2008

Dear Sunbeam Appliance Owner and Customer,

It has come to our attention that the Sunbeam Appliance Website and consumer phone lines are not functioning at this time and perhaps for the foreseeable future.

We would like to assure our customers that AP Wagner will continue to be the only source of Sunbeam Major Appliance parts in the United States. We are the only company with model look up information for Sunbeam Appliances and will continue to provide parts and accessories for a wide-variety of Sunbeam Appliances including Sunbeam Air Conditioners, Sunbeam Electric Ranges, Sunbeam Gas Ranges, and Sunbeam Microwaves.

If you need any help finding the correct part for your Sunbeam Appliance, please contact us via our website through our Live Chat Web button, e-mail, or via phone at 1-888-279-2463. We also have a Sunbeam Appliance Parts Page set up on our website, please visit it by clicking here.

The Sunbeam brand is owned by Jarden Consumer Solutions; however, they have licensed the Sunbeam brand name to another company which sourced and marketed Sunbeam Appliances called Petters Group Worldwide. It is Petters Group Worldwide which has temporarily ceased operations.

News Stories about Sunbeam, Jarden Consumer Solutions, and Petters Group Worldwide: