If your washer is slow to fill, or won’t fill at all, you’ll want to check the water pressure at another tap first. Make sure both the hot and cold taps are fully open. Make sure that no other water is getting used in the house when the washer is filling. Check the hoses for kinks. Make sure that water is getting to the water intake hose. With your tap shut off, loosen or remove the hose from the tap, then open the tap slightly to see if water is getting to the hose intake. If water is getting to the hose, remove the hose from the washer to see if water is making it through the hose to the water intake valve.
Make sure the lid is down as some washers will not fill if the lid switch is not activated. Also, make sure the drain standpipe is at least 30″ tall. If it isn’t, the water may get siphoned out of the washer. If this is happening, install an air gap in the drain line.
There are strainer screens in either of the ends of the hoses that connect to the water valve, or in the valve itself, sometimes in both places. You’ll want to remove the hoses and check the screens to see if they are plugged or not. In certain set-ups, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or water valve, depending on which it is. If the screens are dirty, you may be able to
clean them with an old toothbrush. If you can’t clean them, you will have to replace them. If the screens are clean and water is getting to the valve, it may be that the valve itself is bad. You may need to replace the valve.
Adjust the temperature setting to warm and set your timer to the fill cycle. Start your washer and lift the lid. You’ll want to depress the lid switch with a screwdriver or other tool to prevent the interlock from engaging during this test. Feel or look for water entering the wash tub. If no water is coming in, or if it is too hot or cold, you’ll need to test the voltage on each solenoid valve with a volt ohm meter or Digital VOM. The voltage should be between the ranges of 110v to 125v.
If the voltage is correct and the valve is not opening, you need to replace this valve. If the valve is not getting any power to it, you will need to use your washer specific wiring diagram to look for any broken wires, and if there are no broken wires, move on to test the lid switch, temperature switch, timer, and the water level switch. Replace anything that is defective.
No cold water: check to make sure the cold water is on, and that control settings are set properly. Check intake screens for a sediment or rust buildup. It’s possible that the water-inlet valve is bad.
No hot water: check to make sure the hot water is on, and that control settings are set properly. Check intake screens for a sediment or rust buildup. It’s possible that the water-inlet valve is bad.
Visually inspect the selector switch, make sure that it is set properly and verify that all of the control panel buttons are pushed in completely.
Note: Some brands have a mercury-tube lid switch, and raising the top of the cabinet to get to the solenoid for testing will have the same effect as raising the lid. You may need to jump the switch to perform tests with the cabinet top raised.