Affresh™ Washer Cleaning Kit

The NEW Affresh™ Washer Cleaning Kit helps clean even more of the High-Efficiency Washer!

Affresh Washer Cleaning Kit
The NEW Affresh™ Washer Cleaning Kit

Features:

  • Pre-moistened Grit Grabber™ cloths to clean the rubber door seal
  • Enhanced Power Puck™ tablets to help clean BEHIND the wash drum

Each kit contains:

  • 6 Grit Grabber™ cloths
  • 3 Power Puck™ tablets

With Affresh™ Washer Cleaning Kits, keeping your washer clean and fresh has never been easier!!

The ONLY washer cleaner recommended by Whirlpool, Maytag, & Amana

Affresh is effective in all brands of washers including: GE, LG, Samsung, Frigidaire & Kenmore.

Sale price: $10.99
Compare at: $13.35
You Save: $2.36

Find Affresh Washer Cleaning Kits at APWagner.com!

VibeAway™ Washing Machine Anti-Vibration Pads

New from Whirlpool!  VibeAway™ washing machine anti-vibration pads are engineered to reduce the noise, vibration and pulsation that can occur with household washers.

VibeAway Washing Machine Anti-Vibration Pads
VibeAway™ anti-vibration pads help to reduce the vibration and noise of household washers

 

VibeAway™ pads are made from 100% recycled tire rubber, addressing important environmental concerns and problems facing the planet today.

The shock absorption pad works not just on washing machines, but dryers, table saws, freezers and other large appliances. VibeAway™ pads prevent washing machines from “walking,” and help prolong the life of your washing machine, dryer or other appliance while reducing the need to reinforce upper level floors to reduce vibration and noise.

  • Engineered to reduce noise, vibration, pulsation, and maintenance cost
  • Prevents washing machines from “walking”
  • Protect floors
  • Made from 100% recycled tire rubber, address important environmental concerns
  • Recessed for easy guidance for foot of washing machine/dryer
Find VibeAway™ at APWagner.com.
Part #  W10287227RM
Sale Price: $26.99
Compare at: $32.79
You Save: $5.80

AP Wagner Becomes Authorized Dealer of Samsung Appliance Parts

Buffalo, NY, May 21, 2009 – AP Wagner, a top appliance parts company, is proud to announce, that they are now a fully authorized distributor for Samsung appliance parts.

We are a fully authorized distributor for Samsung appliance parts.
We are a fully authorized distributor for Samsung appliance parts.

AP Wagner has the most popular Samsung appliance parts already in stock and plans to continue growing its Samsung inventory as the most comprehensive source, for Samsung appliance parts in the US.

Additionally, Samsung appliance parts purchased from AP Wagner can be used by authorized servicers to complete Samsung product warranty calls.

AP Wagner is very excited to offer their customers the ability to purchase Samsung appliance parts, as well as the added convenience of being able to fulfill all of their parts needs at once.

AP Wagner is a dedicated leader in the distribution of appliance parts and accessories with 81 years experience. They service appliance dealers, service technicians and do-it-yourselfers. AP Wagner’s main headquarters are located at 2205 George Urban Boulevard in Depew, New York.

 

Why is the water so slow to fill or there’s no water at all?

If your washer is slow to fill, or won’t fill at all, you’ll want to check the water pressure at another tap first. Make sure both the hot and cold taps are fully open. Make sure that no other water is getting used in the house when the washer is filling. Check the hoses for kinks. Make sure that water is getting to the water intake hose. With your tap shut off, loosen or remove the hose from the tap, then open the tap slightly to see if water is getting to the hose intake. If water is getting to the hose, remove the hose from the washer to see if water is making it through the hose to the water intake valve.

Universal Washer Inlet Valve - $10.70
Universal Washer Inlet Valve - $10.70. Buy online at APWagner.com

Make sure the lid is down as some washers will not fill if the lid switch is not activated. Also, make sure the drain standpipe is at least 30″ tall. If it isn’t, the water may get siphoned out of the washer. If this is happening, install an air gap in the drain line.

There are strainer screens in either of the ends of the hoses that connect to the water valve, or in the valve itself, sometimes in both places. You’ll want to remove the hoses and check the screens to see if they are plugged or not. In certain set-ups, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or water valve, depending on which it is. If the screens are dirty, you may be able to

Door Latch and Switch Assembly 131763245-$65.28. Buy online or view more like this
Door Latch and Switch Assembly 131763245-$65.28. Buy online or view more like this.

clean them with an old toothbrush. If you can’t clean them, you will have to replace them. If the screens are clean and water is getting to the valve, it may be that the valve itself is bad. You may need to replace the valve.

Adjust the temperature setting to warm and set your timer to the fill cycle. Start your washer and lift the lid. You’ll want to depress the lid switch with a screwdriver or other tool to prevent the interlock from engaging during this test. Feel or look for water entering the wash tub. If no water is coming in, or if it is too hot or cold, you’ll need to test the voltage on each solenoid valve with a volt ohm meter or Digital VOM. The voltage should be between the ranges of 110v to 125v.

Whirlpool Washer Hose Kit -Includes: Two (2) 6' long rubber hoses, Screens, Seals. Common to washers from Whirlpool, Kenmore, and other brands as well. - Buy online or see more like it.
Whirlpool Washer Hose Kit -Includes: Two (2) 6' long rubber hoses, Screens, Seals. Common to washers from Whirlpool, Kenmore, and other brands as well. - Buy online or see more like it.

If the voltage is correct and the valve is not opening, you need to replace this valve. If the valve is not getting any power to it, you will need to use your washer specific wiring diagram to look for any broken wires, and if there are no broken wires, move on to test the lid switch, temperature switch, timer, and the water level switch. Replace anything that is defective.

No cold water: check to make sure the cold water is on, and that control settings are set properly. Check intake screens for a sediment or rust buildup. It’s possible that the water-inlet valve is bad.

No hot water: check to make sure the hot water is on, and that control settings are set properly. Check intake screens for a sediment or rust buildup. It’s possible that the water-inlet valve is bad.

Visually inspect the selector switch, make sure that it is set properly and verify that all of the control panel buttons are pushed in completely.

Note: Some brands have a mercury-tube lid switch, and raising the top of the cabinet to get to the solenoid for testing will have the same effect as raising the lid. You may need to jump the switch to perform tests with the cabinet top raised.

Washing machine won’t drain

If your washing machine will not drain, there are several things you can check. First, make sure your washing machine has power, and it’s not in the middle of a cycle. Try to manual forward the timer to see if it will force the washing machine to drain.

Check the drain hoses to make sure they are not kinked and there is nothing blocking the water at the end of the drain hose.

If you hear the motor running but nothing is happening in your machine it could be possible that your washing machine’s pump is seized. The motor will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.

Drain your washing machine’s tub and remove the hoses to check your washer’s pump. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam.

Do you need additional help?

5 Common Washing Machine Problems

Washer Problems

Question 1: Why does my washing machine do nothing when I turn it on?

Answer 1: Is your washer getting power? The first things to check if your washer suddenly stops working are your circuit breaker, lid switch, or fuse box. After making sure there is power to the appliance, you can start troubleshooting other problems. To verify there is power at the outlet, try plugging in a small electric appliance such as a hair dryer or radio.

Sometimes the motor will overheat and then requires a cool down period before it will restart.

Is the machine in a pause cycle? Is the lid up? Washers will not spin or agitate if the lid is up. There is a lid switch probe that can sometimes become dislodged. This is generally a little plastic piece that is in the hole under the lid on the washer. This probe activates the lid switch when the lid is put down. Manually advance the timer if the pause is too long.

There are some washer models out there that will not run at all until the water is filled to the level that has been selected. Sometimes the mechanical timer knob on certain washers doesn’t exactly line up with the graphics on the control panel. You can try advancing the timer slightly and pull the knob out again to see if it will start.

Question 2: Why is the washer not agitating and/or spinning?

Answer 2: Make sure the lid is closed. There is a switch inside that completes the connection. Your washer may not spin or agitate if this connection is not completed. Make sure that the speed selector switch is not between speeds. Verify that the washer is not in a soak cycle. You can also reset the water level up or down to make sure that the water level control switch isn’t stuck. If you hear a humming sound when the washer is full of water, you may have something stuck in the drain pump.

If one of these is not the problem, check the belt. The main drive motor has two distinct functions. The first function is to spin the basket; the second function is to reciprocate your agitator. Inside your washer’s transmission is a crank type gear and connecting rods that are used to agitate the washer, with the spinning coming from the washer motor itself. This usually entails some sort of clutch mechanism. Some things to check if your washer is not agitating and/or spinning are:

If you notice weak or no agitation, the splines connecting the agitator to the drive shaft may be stripped and need to be replaced.

After a lot of use, belts can become worn or damaged. Replace any worn or damaged belts immediately. If you have a broken belt, replace it and check the pulley to make sure it’s not seized.

Sometimes the drive pulley can wear out and it won’t turn the drive belt. Look for wear marks, pits, or uneven spots. It’s best to just replace it with a new pulley.

Many washers use a reversing motor. Sometimes it will continue to work in one direction even if it won’t spin in the other direction. If your washer has a drive motor issue, you probably need to replace the motor with a new one. Call a professional appliance repair person to verify this first.

The lid switch is a safety device that’s there to protect you from sticking your hands into a spinning washer. If this switch goes bad, the washer will not work. You will have to replace it. It is inside the main housing for the washer, and located near the door frame.

The coupler connects the motor to the transmission. After lengthy use, this plastic and rubber coupler can wear out. If this happens, you need to replace it.

Transmission and clutch assemblies can cause agitator and spinning problems They are fairly complex, so if you suspect you have transmission or clutch issues it’s probably in your best interest to call a professional appliance repair person.

Question 3: Why won’t the washer drain the water?

Answer 3: If there is a drain issue, sometimes there is an obvious solution. Check the drain hose for any kinks, as well as checking any lint filters in or on the drain hose. Is there a lint sock on the end that’s full? Perhaps the drain line itself is plugged. You will want to make sure that the house drain system is not backed up or plugged. Always make sure that the washer drain hose is above the level of water in the drain tub. Some Whirlpool/Kenmore washers make use of a side-check valve near the tub outlet which may get clogged. A standpipe should be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and never seal a drain hose into a standpipe. This can lead to back-siphoning. You also want to make sure that the standpipe is less than 96 inches in height.

Pump problems show various symptoms. Sometimes the pump will lock up and seize. If the motor is running, it will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pulley may shear off. If there is enough tension on the belt, and the motor continues to try to turn it, you may wind up with a seized motor as well. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.

If you think your pump may be jammed, drain out your tub and remove the hoses. Look inside the hoses and see if there are any obstructions. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam. If you haven’t found a jam, and you still believe there may be a jam in the pump, you can completely remove the pump from the washer and inspect it more closely.

Occasionally, transmission gears may become worn, or some other internal part may go bad. Some older washer models have an electric-mechanical shifter. If it won’t shift, it’s best to call a professional appliance repair person to address this issue. If your transmission is leaking oil, there are really only two options at this point, either run it until it dies completely, or replace it now.
Question 4: Why won’t the washer finish the cycle?

Answer 4: If the washer won’t finish a cycle, it probably means that your timer went bad or stalled. You can take the control panel off and look at the contacts for scorching or corrosion.

Question 5: Why is the washing machine leaking?
Answer 5: If it only leaks during a spin cycle, it’s probably caused by a leaky drain hose.

Over-sudsing is a common problem in homes with a water softener. Soft water and hot water use less detergent, while hard water and cold water need more detergent to clean well. This product, SofChek, will help you to determine if you have soft or hard water in a minute or less. These easy-to-use strips measure the hardness of your water in less than a minute. Just simply look at the color chart provided on the bottle for an instant read-out of the strip to help determine the proper amount of detergent. Lowering the amount of detergent used may alleviate any over-sudsing issues.

Leaks on a front-load washer can occur around the door seal. This can happen because of a build-up of dirt and soap on the seal itself preventing a proper seal from taking place. Wipe the door seal carefully making sure that the edge of the gasket is clean.

Parts of a plastic bleach dispenser can crack or break off, causing a leak intermittently during the flush process. This is because bleach is a very corrosive chemical. Heavy use of liquid chlorine bleach can pit and rust stainless steel parts. Consider switching to oxygenating bleach, although this type of bleach doesn’t get your whites as white as they can get with liquid chlorine bleach. The bleach dispenser is a replacement item.

You’ll want to confirm that the fill hoses are connected and properly tightened. Always use new rubber washers when re-installing the hoses. Take care not to over-tighten the connection. Other leaks may be caused by the drain hose being cracked, or by a leaky connection at the water-inlet valve. Too many suds may cause the appearance of a leak when actually it’s just a sudsy overflow. Sometimes a drain hose leak occurs at the end of the hose where it attaches to the washer. If the hose is long enough you can cut the leaky end off and re-clamp the hose back on. Usually though, when a hose begins to leak, it is best to just replace the hose.

Many pump leaks happen around the seal on the pulley. Some pumps have a weep hole that lets water drip out when this seal begins to go bad. The solution is to rebuild or replace the pump.

Tub leaks are usually caused by a rotted tub. If this is your problem, consider buying a new washer. Sometimes a constant imbalance can be the culprit. This imbalance can rub a hole in the tub if it consistently runs off-balance. It may be possible to repair the tub with an epoxy kit. Tub replacement isn’t usually very economical.

The main tub seal can also leak. This is located where the transmission and the outer tub in the center. If this seal goes bad, it can be very difficult to replace.

Sometimes the water-inlet valve develops a buildup of mineral deposits and rust. To check this, remove the water-inlet valve and visually inspect the surface.

There is a cool product that is designed to help prevent water damage from a leaky washer. It’s called a Washer Floor Tray. This tray catches water leaks and prevents floor damage from overflows. This product is a must for upstairs laundries.

For more Appliance Repair help, please search this blog and for appliance parts visit us at APWagner.